There are many museums to be found in Tokyo, but if you fancy something a little different and a little off the beaten track, then this museum is a solid choice.
Located in the west of Tokyo (and not to be confused with the Edo-Tokyo museum in Ryōgoku) , the architectural museum can be found in Koganei Park. To get there, you can ride the Chuo line train from Shinjuku. The journey takes just over 20 minutes and after arriving at Musashi-Koganei station, you switch to a bus. There are buses going regularly, every 5-10 minutes during the day. Take the North Exit of the station, and there is a sign on the bus stop saying ‘Koganei Park’. Ride the bus for about 5 minutes until you arrive at the park. Once arriving, you can follow the signposts until you reach the museum entrance gate.
The standard entrance ticket is ¥400 and there are student and children discounts. In the entrance building there is a small exhibition on the history of Sentō, Japanese bathhouses. After walking around there you can exit into the open-air area, which is split into three sections (West, East & Center). First we headed to the left which is the West area along ‘Yamanote Street’. The buildings in the park are reconstructions of buildings that were previously in various areas of Tokyo. You can see inside the different rooms, each made up with items they would have had at the time of building.
The first building is a photo studio which was previously located in Itabashi. You can see the tall shape of the building which was built in a Western Style. The next building is the first of many residences in the museum. This one was built in the 50’s and the highlights are the dining room along with a large garden area.
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| Hachirouemon Mitsui Residence |
After exiting the residences garden we took a rest at the House of Georg de Lalande which has been converted into a very quaint cafe. The interior is delightful and with servers wearing black outfits and dainty white hats and aprons. This house was previously in the Shinjuku area and built by a German architect who the house is named after. Many years after it construction, the house was lived in by the inventor of the famous Japanese drink Calpis. The menu features the usual coffee and tea along with some European offerings. At the time of our visit, many people seemed to be ordering Kakigori- Japanese shaved ice with a coffee syrup. So its possible, as in many places in Japan, there will be seasonal items on the menu. We opted for a quick snack of German sausages and a slice of Swiss Roll.
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| Farmhouse interior |
There is an outdoor terrace area for eating as well as the indoor cafe. After leaving the cafe we continued on through the West zone visiting Farmhouses and more city residences before crossing over into the Center zone. First we saw a mausoleum decorated in bright red and gold before arriving at the gate of one of the past feudal lords house. The Center area focuses on the slightly upper class with one of the buildings being Korekiyo Takahashi's house, who was an important political figure during the early 1900's. This house also has an impressive garden. During our summer visit, Japanese summer wind chimes (Furin) could be seen hanging from the exterior of the house. This house features several rooms and is one of t
he biggest buildings featured in the museum. A small tea room can also be found in the Center zone where can you view a traditional layout featuring tatami mats.
he biggest buildings featured in the museum. A small tea room can also be found in the Center zone where can you view a traditional layout featuring tatami mats.
Moving on towards the East zone which I consider the 'downtown' area, you are first greeted after crossing a small bridge, by the usual Police Box or Koban in Japanese. As you walk on there is also a wonderful old bright yellow tram which formally ran routes through Tokyo. Through to the main street, you can find a Soy Sauce shop, a bar, a workshop, a stationery shop, a flower shop, a kitchenware shop and the highlight of the whole museum, the Bathhouse. You can enter all of these stores which are decorated with objects from the period of construction.
The exteriors of the street are fantastic and you feel like you could be in a movie set, especially with some guests having photo-shoots in Kimono or Yukata. Walking down the side streets, make you feel as if you've been transported back through time. One of 
the most interesting stores on the street is the Umbrella shop. You can briefly learn about the process of umbrella making through photos and examples.This shop showcases how an umbrella maker would've looked in the 1930's. This particular shop used to located in Edogawa ward. Further along the street, there is a grocery store, Inn and Cosmetics shop.
The grocery store's interior is also interesting with an old cash register, money safe and various old products for sale. Certainly very different to the 7/11's and FamilyMarts we have in Japan today!
the most interesting stores on the street is the Umbrella shop. You can briefly learn about the process of umbrella making through photos and examples.This shop showcases how an umbrella maker would've looked in the 1930's. This particular shop used to located in Edogawa ward. Further along the street, there is a grocery store, Inn and Cosmetics shop.
The grocery store's interior is also interesting with an old cash register, money safe and various old products for sale. Certainly very different to the 7/11's and FamilyMarts we have in Japan today! And finally we arrived at the heart of the park, having saved best till last. The Bathhouse
. This was a typical Tokyo public Bathhouse, with two large bathing areas, one for men and one for women. This Bathhouse had been moved here from Adachi ward in Tokyo. Many of these in Tokyo have a temple like demeanor, this one in particular having good luck connotations for safe delivery of a baby. These days there are still Bathhouses in Tokyo but much fewer than there were in the past when they flourished. The exterior of the building looks like something you would find in Studio Ghibli film with white brick foundations and an impressive roof. After you duck under the Noren (small hanging curtain), you must take off your shoes, and you first walk through the men's changing area where you can see woven baskets for your belongings before entering the bathing area. The eyes are immediately drawn to the stunning mural of Mount Fuji. Murals are usual in Bathhouses, giving off a relaxing atmosphere of bathing beneath famous Japanese locations. As you go through to the women's bathing area, there is also a landscape mural. Its easy to imagine the bustling nature of the place during its heyday.
. This was a typical Tokyo public Bathhouse, with two large bathing areas, one for men and one for women. This Bathhouse had been moved here from Adachi ward in Tokyo. Many of these in Tokyo have a temple like demeanor, this one in particular having good luck connotations for safe delivery of a baby. These days there are still Bathhouses in Tokyo but much fewer than there were in the past when they flourished. The exterior of the building looks like something you would find in Studio Ghibli film with white brick foundations and an impressive roof. After you duck under the Noren (small hanging curtain), you must take off your shoes, and you first walk through the men's changing area where you can see woven baskets for your belongings before entering the bathing area. The eyes are immediately drawn to the stunning mural of Mount Fuji. Murals are usual in Bathhouses, giving off a relaxing atmosphere of bathing beneath famous Japanese locations. As you go through to the women's bathing area, there is also a landscape mural. Its easy to imagine the bustling nature of the place during its heyday. Overall the museum is well worth a visit, not only if you're interested in architecture but also just Japanese history . I like to compare it to Beamish in the UK, only on a smaller scale and with less interactivity. This is a lovely day trip and even for a family the entrance fee is not over the top. Its easy to spend 3 or 4 hours strolling around, taking in the Edo atmosphere, letting your imagination take you back in time.
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